Ping Battery Replacement with Clean Republic e-Bike Motor and Controller

[Original Blog post with details of what’s inside a Clean Republic Battery pack is here.]

Received the new Ping 36V 10AH Li-FePO4 Battery from China today – very well-packed for shipment and partially charged.

Upon unboxing, the Ping Battery Management circuit is heat-shrinked to top of battery pack. Red and Black main leads are to the front (6 ga. heavy wires) and run to the Management circuit. The charging connector wires are Blue and Black are terminated in a male XLR connector which mates to the 36VDC Li-On charger (not pictured).  Battery shipped with a complimentary 2.5AH charger.

Removed the switch and plastic mount from the original Clean Republic metal battery case (which cannot fit a different battery because of a tight design), and de-soldered the 4 pin male panel mount DIN connector from its original PC board (which had the Clean Republic battery charge management circuitry on it).  Resoldered the 4-pin DIN chassis mount to the new Ping battery main leads (Red-to-Red, Black-to-Black).  The 4-pin DIN is wired with 2 pins negative and 2 pins positive (refer to the wire color from the female 4-pin DIN mate plug which goes to the Clean Republic Controller box (which connects via the multi-pin connector to the motor and throttle switch). Shrink-wrapped the connections and later zip-tied the battery leads together to stiffen them against tear-away.

Plugged the battery back into the Clean Republic controller via the 4-pin DIN and re-connected the power switch.  Temporarily strapped everything to the bike’s original Topeak beam rack and plugged it in – Presto! works fine and runs about 25% faster.  Have it charging at the moment and will take it on a test run next week once the new case is fitted to the rack.

Battery is about 6 x 6 x 4, so the original Clean Republic nylon case won’t fit. Will be substituting a standard Topeak nylon snap-in zip pack instead to hold the battery.  Power switch mount is temporarily taped to the opposite side just above the Controller box. All of this fits pretty well in a Topeak MTX Trunk Bag DX which slides right back into the MTX rack and locks in tight. (author note: actually, I have an RX rack, and had an RX/EX bag, which didn’t quite close with the battery in it.  So I unbolted the slide mechanism from the EX bag and re-mounted in into the MTX/DX bag and placed the original MTX plate at the bottom for stiffness.  Equals a MTX/DX bag mounted on an RX rack.

New, more powerful battery replaced for US$360 including shipping.

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5 thoughts on “Ping Battery Replacement with Clean Republic e-Bike Motor and Controller”

  1. Why did you choose 36V rather than 24V? Why Ping rather than others: Tenergy, Shorai, k2 energy etc.? What’s the warranty on Ping? You indicated you would be taking it out for a test ride. How did that work out?

    1. Ping offers 1-year warranty. 36V for more speed (rotational) – 24V would have had more capacity for the same battery volume+weight (package-wise). Why Ping? He stands behind his product, ships really fast, and does whatever necessary to make you a satisfied customer, regardless of how you’re using his batteries. And 12 months later, the bike runs faster and longer, charges consistently, & the battery pack is fine.

  2. I am ordering a 24V 20ah ping battery for my Hilltopper and was wondering if you might post more detailed pics of your wiring to the cr controller. It would really help me out with my kit. Thanks for any help you can provide. Your setup looks great!

    1. There’s really nothing else to show. The HT controller only has 2 leads for power: Red(+) and Black(-) at any voltage you want to feed it (16-36VDC) – the photo shows 2 red wires, but they’re both connected together at both ends, presumably just to handle higher amperage and keep it flexible.

      To keep things simple, the controller-side of the plug is left exactly as it comes out of the HT battery bag. The original battery-box side of the plug does need to be de-soldered from the PC board behind it, and taken off the mounting panel. But It really only has 2 pins positive (+) and 2 pins negative (-) and you just solder your battery leads to those (a little tricky only because Ping’s battery leads use really heavy 12ga stranded wire. [If it’s not clear from the photo – the fat red wire from the battery gets soldered to both (+) pins bridging them, and the same for the black wire (to both (-) pins), or you could just use one pin for each (since the other side is already bridged). Or eliminate the connector altogether and just solder red-to-red and black-to-black, or replace the funky metal chassis connector with a 24V-rated power plug set from an auto parts store.

      The switch goes between the negative battery lead and the controller negative (black) power input. You don’t alter anything on the 8-pin connector that goes to the drive motor+throttle switch.

      The light blue wire comes from Ping with a 3-pin XLR-F connector to mate with the supplied 24VDC Li-Po battery charger. Anything still unclear?

  3. Hi James,
    It turned out I was over intimidated as the most wiring I had done was with a house fan or light. It worked out perfectly. The 24v 10ah fits the clean republic sla black bag perfectly, so it was a plug and play project. All I needed was a $2.19 set of connectors from radio shack. I purchased two batteries from ping, who was great to work with. After I set up the first battery I ordered another controller from clean republic and Chris was nice enough to throw in another sla battery bag and on/off switch. Had to fabricate a backing place for the switch with a piece of thin plywood but a jig saw was all I needed. Thanks for the post – the clean republic kit with ping’s battery is awesome. May even purchase a 36v battery in the future for those days I’m feeling a little lazy!

    Thanks again!


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